Broadsheet - Sth Central

 
Photography: Gareth Sobey

Photography: Gareth Sobey

 

Sth Central is the first proper restaurant for the Tommy Collins group (The Little Ox, Hawk & Hunter, Schmuck’s Bagels). It has teamed up with Leroy Smith, former frontman at Stokehouse, for a casual but sophisticated restaurant.

Daniel Southern (ex-Est Est Est, Circa, Comme) is head chef. The team is aware of the abundance of apartments and other residences in the area (Sth Central is at the base of the Central South Yarra apartments), and so it serves “homey” food.

The menu will evolve, but is all about protein. There’s a slow-roasted beef short rib served with a dark, smoky eggplant puree and fresh grated horseradish. For something a little lighter, the confit salmon served with cubes of compressed watermelon, radish and fennel salad and a quenelle of lemon puree is a great option.

Smith has called on old friend and former Stokehouse sommelier Lincoln Riley to help him devise a seriously solid wine list. The classics are there for those who want to play it safe, but there are also options for the adventurous, such as the Quealy Fruiliano fermented in amphora. There’s a healthy by-the-glass list, a few sweet and fortified wines, and cocktails.

The team will serve a list of digestives, too, such as amaro montenegró, and fernet branca.

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